We’re back!!

Fire and Ice Mt Mc kinley Challenge

As you know we have just returned from Mt McKinley or Denali (the big one) the native Indians call it, high in the Alaskan Tundra. The team of 6 Staffordshire Fire fighters, 5 Royal Marines and 6 civilians attempt to climb this 20,300ft Giant. The expedition started well, with a 60mile flight in a 4 seater light aircraft landing with a bump and a skid onto the glacier at 7,000ft. Then after packing our Pulks (sledges) with about 100lbs of equipment and rucksacks with 60lb set off, descending initially the 1,000ft heartbreak hill , we found out why on the way back! And then with the blistering sun bouncing off the glacial snow ascending to the first camp at 8,900ft. Because of the high winds that can ravage this part of the world, all the tents were dug into the snow to stop them blowing away, only then could we melt the ice to make drinks and food.

The next three days were spent skiing/climbing to 11,000 in a mixture of conditions all roped together to avoiding the deep exposed crevasses of the Kahiltna Glacier, then when an unexpected storm hit over night the tents were buried in 4 feet of powder. Due to the whiteout conditions we were then tent bound for the day until the storm passed. Continuing upwards now wearing crampons we ascended Motorcycle hill, past squirrel point and windy corner to deposit a cache of food and equipment at 13,500ft the weather was perfect and we could see for over a hundred miles , the rest of the mountain range now came into view , with Mount Foraker and Hunter standing proud in the fore ground exposing their craggy, rough wind swept exterior appearing almost close enough to touch. That night we returned to 11,000ft to rest, only to return the following day and continuing on to the advanced base camp at 14,200ft, an established camp with a medical tent, toilet and volunteer mountain rescue team who were kept very busy in the days to come

After retrieving our cache of food and equipment the following day we had some spare time so, under the guidance of Andy, King Arthur’s Table was dug into the Glacial floor , a circular table with space to sit the whole party of 17 including some invited guests, the only proviso being any one sitting at the table bring an Ice Axe and have the point into the centre of the table, several Ice sculptures were constructed depicting aspects of our lives causing great interest and amusement to the rest of the camp.

Back up the mountain the following day to deposit another cache ,including tents fuel and food at 16,500ft, this was perhaps the most challenging part of the ascent using fixed ropes on a Headwall up to 80 degrees climb in oxygen starved conditions . However from the top of the ridge the whole of the Alaskan tundra lay before us far in the valley below with lesser peaks spread out in all directions. To be in a place of such beauty and majesty is a honour and privilege and although I have been to this altitude before I never cease to be inspired by the magnitude and perfection of these high wilderness places .The sun was shining, it was cold and tiny ice crystals hung like fairy dust in the air. Returning to camp that night saw a change in the weather and the planned rest day turned into 5 days as gale force winds of 110mph battered the mountain . The spin drift buried the tents and warnings issued by the mountain rescue team about ascending further , reluctantly we had to descend as time was now against us but far from being a disaster ( which it could have been if we had proceeded) the experience gained by all of the team members is one we will cherish and remember for ever , spending only a short time in such a spiritually inspiring place must touch the heart and enrich any ones life that has experienced it. I have met some fantastic people mads good friendships and spent quality time with old friends. Thanks especially to Andy for all the hard work he has put in to this expedition and any one else involved with the organisation

Martin (panther)